Walk the entire length and breadth of bespoke tailoring as you discover the process of getting a bespoke suit made and the range of occasions on which you can wear such outfits, the recent trends and also how a bespoke outfit is an investment in itself.

T he term bespoke is derived from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. In fashion, the term is reserved for individually patterned and crafted mens clothing much like womens haute couture. It is in direct contrast with mass-manufactured ready-to-wear garments. The term, bespoke tailoring, has its roots in Savile Row, a London street known as the Golden Mile of Tailoring. So what exactly is bespoke tailoring, you ask? It means a suit that has been spoken for. It is when a tailor creates a suit from scratch for one person. So, how long does it take? It takes multiple fitting sessions to create a perfect suit. After the measurements are taken, the pattern is drafted directly on to the person. We create the perfect fit, so if your suit has a slightly droopy shoulder, common in off-the-rack garments, so common it is not even noticed anymore, Id be able to see it and correct it.

A Bespoke Creation

Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern that is specially drafted for the customer and is very different from ready-to-wear which is factory made in standardized sizes and from made-to-measure that is produced to order from an adjusted block pattern. Since the development of ready-to-wear in the 20th century, bespoke clothing has become synonymous with a high quality construction. A full bespoke suit means that you have a choice of fabrics and linings and any style details that you require. The drafted pattern that the suit is created from can be corrected after the fittings and accurate record is built up for later use. To summarise, a full bespoke suit is cut and fitted by the same person, made by hand. Each suit is a one-off creation and mass production methods have no place in the bespoke workroom.

You and your Fit and Form

Nothing will fit you better than bespoke. Everything is accounted for. We take 20-to-25 direct measurements. We also pay attention to how the client stands before drafting the pattern. After cutting the suit, the suit and the trousers are lightly stitched together into a shell. This is where the first fitting takes place.The suit is then pulled apart and recut before being made up. This is also when the drafted pattern is updated to keep the future purchases accurate as well. The final fitting takes place at this stage, after which minor changes, if any, are made.

Grooms Bespoke Couture

When it comes to weddings, bespoke clothing delves deeper into the personal choices of the groom. There are multiples aspects to be taken into consideration like choices dictated by culture and community. For instance, black is a common choice for Muslim would-be-grooms but Hindu grooms-to-be prefer light and earthy colours when it comes to wedding attire. Hindu grooms-to-be, especially from south India generally go for dhotis and lungis while those from north India ask for achkans. a long knee-length jacket.Other factors, like the venue for instance, is taken into consideration when deciding the material. If its an outdoor wedding taking place during the day, light and airy fabrics like linen are used. An indoor wedding calls for richer fabrics like velvet and silk. We tend to all the requirements. If the wedding is going to be a small affair, then people dont like spending a lot of money on the garments. If the groom is allergic to synthetic materials then we make sure to use only natural fabrics like silk, cotton, pure wool and linen.

Current Trends in Grooms Wear

Grooms-to-be nowadays are not limiting themselves to traditional attire, they are more adventurous now, open to more options when it comes to colours and cuts. Textures over embroidery is another trend thats picking up pace, most people favour textured garments with less embroidery as compared to earlier, when everyone asked for heavily embroidered pieces. Talking about the textures and colours, it is dependent on the theme of the wedding, the venue, the season, besides the grooms choice. Grooms-to-be in North prefer their outfits to be more on the gorgeous side, while those in cities like Mumbai prefer theirs to be more underplayed, though tastes constantly keep evolving. When it comes to cuts-and-styles, the bandhgala has had a breakthrough year. The all-time classic tuxedo has gone through a makeover this season. Tuxes are now heavily textured and embroidered made in fabrics like velvet and silk in colours like dark blue and grey instead of black.

While designing wedding outfits, one needs to pay attention to varied cultural nuances. A Marwari wedding, for example is very different from a Muslim wedding in terms of choice of colours, fabrics, embroidery, etc. While whats in vogue changes with each season, the design philosophy followed by the Agastis is dominated by fit and finish. We try to be as Indian as we can while keeping in mind the international trends. This makes our designs more wearable and up-to-date.

About the Author.

A master at bespoke tailoring, from his early days in Nagpur, Madhav Agasti has been enchanted by clothes. What began as a fascination turned into MMM, Madhavs Mens Modes in 1975 in Mumbai. Almost 40 years since then, Madhavji. as he is fondly called, has designed and tailored clothes for the whos who of politics. Since the late 70s, he has designed costumes for almost 300 Bollywood movies including the ever-famous Mogambo costume from the movie Mr. India. Contact Details: Madhavs Mens Modes: Rizvi Mahal, Waterfield Road, Bandra West. Mumbai (Near Bhabha Hospital); Tel: 022-26424887